Sunday, February 16, 1997

Taormina Ristorante - by Ned Sweeny

An upgraded menu is adding some new excitement at one of Commack's traditional restaurants. Noted critics have defined Taormina Ristorante as the definition of an Italian eatery - high praise for a restaurant that sits in the very heart of Long Island.

Owners Peter and Chef Joseph Maccarrone insist nothing but the best is served. Peter explains that he and Joseph take great pride in everything they do and demand nothing less from the staff.

The restaurant has drawn great response both in the dining and pizzeria, named for a town in Sicily, near their home village. Peter, who worked at an Italian specialty store before working for an uncle at a popular restaurant in Port Jefferson Station for a decade, explains the Commack restaurant started off as a pizzeria and storeroom for a neighborhood bagel bakery.

"We saw the potential," he said of his menu, "in a wonderful town, in the middle of a growing shopping district, people needed a place where they can get away for a casual lunch or a relaxing dinner. Our sauces are out of this world because we make them the traditional way - with the best and freshest ingredients."

That also is the way they redesigned the restaurant, including murals of the Mediterranean seaside town to highlight the renovation. "We put a lot of pride in everything we do because we love what we do and our customers deserve it."

From his delicious specialty pizzas to the popular dishes, which Peter lovingly describes, customers are in for a treat at Taormina. Peter boasts about all the dishes, but he highlighted entrees such as the Boneless Breast of Scarpariella ($14.95) and a house creation, Breast of Chicken Taormina, a chicken breast stuffed with prosciutto, mozzarella and topped by roasted peppers, mushrooms and a light brown sauce ($17.95).

Many traditional dishes get the brothers' special treatment, starting with Hot Antipasto for two ($12.95); the wonder Pasta Fagioli ($4.95); seafood dishes such as Zuppa di Pesce, with lobster tail, clams, shrimp,mussels, scungilli and calamari over linguini, with hot or mild marinara sauce and a salad ($23.50) and combos such as Stuffed Shells and Eggplant Rollatine and a salad ($10.95) or the Chicken and Shrimp Parmigiana, with spaghetti or salad ($14.95).

Other favorites include the Linguine Marachiare ($13.95), Penne with Broccoli Rabe ($12.95), Shrimp Fra Diavolo ($16.95), Veal Rollatine Alla Marsala ($17.50), Broiled Rib Steak Pizzaiola ($18.95) and Grilled Rack of Lamb or Chops ($21.95).

Specialties: Italian
Directions: On the west side of the road, in the Commack Plaza shopping center next to Macy's and Michael's just south of the intersection with Jericho Turnpike.
Hours: Monday to Thursday, 11a.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, to 11 p.m.; Sunday, noon to 10 p.m.
Credit Cards: AE, MC, V.
Reservations: Not accepted, but a waiting list is available.
Wheelchair Accessibility: Fully accessible.
Other: Catering to 50; off-premises catering; take-out; trays; pizzeria; children's menu; Pasta Nights, Monday to Wednesday, starting at $6.95; gift certificates; wine and beer.